On the 20th we decided to check out the northern side of Hvar before heading over to Brac. Only a 20 mile run so it was after midday before we cast off. Vrboska the town sits at the very end of a long narrow and very beautiful inlet.
At the mouth of the inlet we could see a large RV Park full of caravans and RVs.Then we noticed naked people sunning themselves on the adjacent shoreline rock slabs. We discovered that the RV Park was a nudist camp but found it hard to imagine wondering around a packed caravan park stark naked...?
There are heaps of nude beaches here, but topless seems to be the go on the non-nudist beaches.
Sorry, did that sound like a complaint?
We were met at about that point by a smart chap in a rib who asked us our intentions. The choices were and ACI Marina ($$$) or the town quay. No brainer, we like town quays, we don't like marinas. He ummed and arrred, thought we may have to raft up with another catamaran but in the end we followed him to prime position on the town quay right next to a boat who's British occupant just happened to own a holiday house on the island and gave us the 'must do's' whilst there.
The town itself defies an appropriate superlative. The inlet winds its way through the village of ancient buildings right out of a 17th century children's novel. So placid and safe from menacing winds, we discovered a little hole in the wall wine bar with this kind of view where for $14 you got a platter to go with their home made white and then another to suit their home made red. The kids had miles of flat cycle way to explore so all was right with our world.
And the things we must do...? Hire a car and drive to Humac to eat and cycle to Jelsa for both the ride and the town itself.
On the way to Humac, we drove into Stari Grad. A larger town also at the end of a long inlet and I'd recommend it to other yachties. Plenty of room on the town quay and a beautiful place to explore. The kids bought themselves skate board with wheels that light up when on the move. This has turned out to be a wonderful idea, not just because they have both picked it up very quickly, but because they attract other kids on skate boards and all of these towns are perfect for skate boarding. No traffic, wide smooth paving and no complaining locals.
Then up to Humac. Ancient. Apparently 140 stone houses built among the rocks and vines, most uninhabitable but plans afoot to change that. The most rustic of outdoor kitchens and seating areas the cooking aromas cruel on an empty stomach, we ordered and tucked in, once again with their home made red wine. Bliss.
Unlimited exploring for the kids, a bowl of local almonds in their husks and a hammer for them to crack on the stump and eat. Then a walk to the lookout at the highest point of the island from where you can see Italy as well as the surrounding Croatian islands.
The recommender did say it was 'long lunch' territory. He was correct. If you find yourself on Hvar, you really must not miss Konoba Humac
The following day we rode to Jelsa. A beautiful tree covered waterside cycleway, the water impossibly clear as it is all over Croatia. We sold the kids the idea of the ride, now that they were skateboarders by telling them that there was a water-park not far from Jelsa.
Another pretty harbour town and home to the only seaplane we have seen here. We rode straight on through in search of the water-park. There was one but it had closed for the season and had all been packed up however the beach cove it once occupied was an attractive, uncrowded place for a swim.
We hired a couple of sun beds and got comfortable in the warm September sunshine....
Then they arrived. Something about Russian men in a group.... 60's style testosterone, booming voices and scant regard for their fellow sun bathers.
Something about Russian women... you simply do not exist...
This is a shot of our prematurely vacated sun beds facing the water. Get where they just strode up and plonked themselves...
Back to Jelsa for a spot of lunch and some energy replenishment for the ride home. the kids long gone to get back to their skate boards
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