Porto Montinegro - The way the 0.0001% live

We had four days before we needed to get to Slano Marina in Croatia where we leave the boat and I head off to join Mark in Bali and Sal meets her sister Lisa in Paris. We wanted to check out in Porto Montenegro and fill up with duty free fuel but not necessarily stay there because it is so expensive to do anything.

A neighbour recommended Donji Morinj, an anchorage with beautiful views near a renowned Montenegrin restaurant. Always an attractor so at 12:30 on Friday the 9th, off we popped. A short 7 mile motor and on arrival were a little underwhelmed. There was a small wall to go alongside on but close to the main road and uninviting. We do prefer being alongside to anchoring so we took it.

A few mega yachts lolled in the bay and there was a restaurant and swimming area a short paddle board away. Sunbed, spritzer and we were set before investigating this restaurant that we had now heard about from several sources including a young lady sunbathing on the dock when we arrived.

We heard that it was an old mill upstream on a little river that broke into the bay and freezing the top 6 inches of the swimming area, a weird sensation.

We decided to see if this river was navigable by dingy. It was. Just. We tied up in a picturesque spot, the greeting was not overly welcoming and felt it may have something to do with the way we were dressed. They warmed, there was plenty for the kids to explore and the food and service became world class.

We recommend that restaurant if only I could remember what it was called, but if you head for Donji Morinj,you'll find it.

The following morning we headed for another recommended anchorage nearer Porto Montenegro only to find the shoreline there covered in garbage. Nothing for it but to see if there was space for us in Porto Montenegro even though we had intended not to stay there. There was so we bit the bullet and went in.

It was hot so while we got set up, I took the bikes down and sent the kids off to the pool. In no time they were back,down cast for two reasons. They had to be accompanied by an adult and it was 25 Euro ($40) each for the day and it was already 5:30pm... Sorry kids it will have to wait until tomorrow.




Tomorrow came and I headed off with them. We were escorted to our day beds, each with fresh soft towels, complimentary grapes and water, the €100 plus service fee soon forgotten as the beautifully presented cocktails and canape's started to mount up. Oh,and it is quite some pool!

The evenings were for promenading. All so immaculately finished, this place is part owned by the Rothchilds and cost €500 million to build. It is the place where the really big swinging dicks hang out, perfectly tanned and accompanied by a younger miss botoxed and siliconed customarily weighed down by branded shopping bags.... Not sounding too bitchy am I.....? That is a crystal skull between vaulted windows... Very schick,

This is the main dock where the super and mega yachts are moored in full view of the central promenade. Paying homage to the fact that it used to be a military port this huge crane transformed into art. 

Now as if owning a mega yacht was not enough, you need to take it just one small step further in order to be noticed.... 

This place is well built, so well served, everybody having an amazing experience, so completely out of out league but well worth the time and almost worth the money. 

The Bora takes the place of the Meltemi in the Adriatic and it has to be said, it is worse. The Book advises that you seek shelter before it hits and if you don't make it then just call mayday. It was looking ominously like the Bora was on the day we were leaving as we had literally and suddenly been blown hard against the dock and had to use the engines to stay clear. We sought an official weather update from the marina office and were informed that it was all good as far north as Dubrovnik, north of there the Bora was pumping. 

We needed to get to Slano Marina some 12 miles north of Dubrovnik but plan 'B' would be to stay in Cavtat which was our 'check into Croatia' venue just south of Dubrovnik

Filled up with €0.90 per litre duty free diesel, I was driven around in a golf buggy to complete the checking out of Montenegro procedures and we left.

At least three people had cautioned us against going but we decided to go with the official weather update. 

Exiting the Boca into open sea expecting to be blasted, we enjoyed a calm, windless ride all the way to Cavtat. Moored, checked in, ATM'ed some Kuna (Croatian currency) and continued north.

Sal and I were in Dubrovnik, Sal pregnant with Summer 10 years ago. It was a good feeling to be sailing past it now with Summer on board thinking... "Who would have thought?"

Two miles north of Dubrovnik and we were introduced to the Bora. From nothing to 25 knots in seconds, then steadily climbing to 35 knots. Pouring down the mountain range to our east you can see that the white caps start at the waters edge, there is no protection from the land, in fact as I said before the mountains are responsible for doubling the wind speed.

We finally rounded to mouth of Slano Bay and worked our way head wind to the marina. It was still blowing 25 - 30 knots in the marina which made mooring interesting. Luckily the marina is designed such that there are no cross wind moorings.

Talk about luck. This marina opened in July this year. We had tried to book a spot in Dubrovnik marina for 16 days while we are away but they could not accommodate us for that time and suggested Slano. We called Slano and yes, they could provide a safe berth for the time required and because the marina had just opened, for every day we stayed, we got one day free! It would have cost nearly four times as much had we got into Dubrovnik.

So new the restaurant or bar has yet to open, fortunately the pool is open and the kids didn't need supervision.