Walking around the key sights in Istanbul wearing an audio guide, and carrying in plain sight a guide book, map, IPhone/camera with sweaty armpits is not our idea of getting under the skin of the place. One way to do that, is to take the Food Tour. 14 stops, 14 meals, one day!
This was 'the best day of Sally's life' as she put it, so she gets to do this blog...
9:30am - So excited about this day. We didn’t eat breakfast at the hotel
in anticipation of a massive, fully fledged Turkish food experience….We met
Latif, our guide at the designated meeting point and off we went.
The first stop was a great start. Sourcing
our own breakfast from the spice markets, simit (bread) from the local cart vendor, which are now legalised on the
streets of Istanbul and away we go to sit in a local chai house to start our
day….sitting on squat chairs ,Latif laid out the ingredience and explained the history of eating breakfast…
WOW, taste sensations begin, sujuk (sausage) in scrambled eggs, pastirma (beef cured in thick tomato paste and finely sliced). Simit dipped in local honey and cream, an array of goats/cow cheeses, olives, Turkish nutella and tahini all washed down with chai.
We were warned to try and not to over indulge, we made our way to the local ferry for Kadikoy which is across the Bosphorus to Asia Minor, and the promise of a gastronomic day ahead, also know as the food capital of Istanbul. On the way Latif indulged us in a brief history of Istanbul, Turkey and Islam. He is a non-practicing Muslim who was born in Germany. His father felt he was becoming too 'German' so he was sent back to Turkey at an early age so he could become a good Muslim. Islam dictates that as the father you will suffer on judgement day if your sons do not grow up to be good Muslims.....
First stop, The candy store!
As we entered this local “sweetie” shop, the kids eyeballs
were out on stalks. All handmade, colourful and mind boggling art….we were
presented with candied vegetables and fruits, eggplants, tomato’s, green plums,
walnuts and so on, Finishing off with “sherbet” a local cordial drink made of fruits
or spices. In the Turkish culture a suitor wishing to ask for permission for
the girls hand presents to the family a silver basket full of “sweeties” to
prove his intentions….the girl then makes Kavehesi (coffee) with sugar or salt, the suitor knows her answer if his tastes salty!
Kadikoy is viewed as bohemian by Istanbulites. It is secular with a Synagogue, a Greek Orthodox church, a Catholic Church and a Mosque all within cooeee of each other. Everywhere you look there are examples of fresh, seasonal Turkish produce. We liked it so much we found ourselves looking at the price of real estate in the area.
The famous Ciya Sofresi – meaning home-made food….so good is this restaurant, they have 3 on the strip, and one is a kepab shop across the way. We were introduced to exotic flavours such as meatballs with sour cherries, dried eggplant stuffed and steamed with mincemeat, okra with peppers, soups, stews and the local bread ( naan, lavash or just Turkish bread) straight out of the oven, hot and puffed up like a balloon served with garlic butter and tomato dip.
By now we are all in a bit of a dream state filled with exotic taste sensations, this next stop was almost overload. We were introduced to the family run business and got set to “work” firstly our eyes didn’t know which way to look. Hundreds of jars full of pickled everything. Bananas, eggs, carrots, half cabbages, the vibrant colours, the displays……..just ohhhhhh wowwwwww.
Will, being a chilli fiend put his hand up to try the jalapenos, much
to the delight of the young son of the owner. He took him behind the counter
and the challenge was on…..Yes, no, yes, no and finally yes…in it went as we all waited for the verdict…poor little guy, tears welled up and tongue panted out "WATER" Well done Will, a stellar performance.
Now the real challenge begins, a war of backgammon was about
to be played out. Latif showed his competitive side as we were sat down at the
local Kahvehsi House ( coffee) where the men like to gather and play backgammon
and OK, a form of Rumikub. Chai for the kids, kavehelsi for the adults,
thick and steaming coffee served in small cups, just barely a mouthful, however
the strength of it was enough……a good digestive as Latif then announced that we
were only half way through our tour……!
Onto stop # 7, the local takeaway meal, how kepabs should be
made! Finely diced meat and fat fried together on a flat plate, a touch of hot
spice, a touch moreog the hot spice, aromas drifting out the window… all made us
eager to bite right in. So we did, probably the spiciest meal we have had so
far and the only thing to cool it down was with the frothy house made ayran
yoghurt drink served in aluminium mugs that literally took the pain away
instantly…..soooo good!
This stop was one that we had already discussed and probably the least one we were looking forward to – not sure why – perhaps it conjured up thoughts of our childhood? We rubbed our hands together, we were ready to take on this food challenge…I’m pretty sure the kids hadn’t understood the reality here and we just ran with it….. A lovely spit of Lamb intestines wrapped around a tube of fat so it didn’t dry out. Each order was lovingly shaved off and pan fried over the coals with s&p, spices and quickly directed into a fresh long bread roll……mmmmmmm. Click here to see the process from the hammer call to the customers.. Kokeretsi - Fast food Lamb intestines
Not bad really, although this Summer announces, “ If this was the last thing there was
to eat in the world, then I would”
Latif had been talking this one up, Bonfile Kepab was born out
of the owners frustration at not being able to get a good quality late night
kepab. The low down, the best fillet steak you can buy, finely sliced then slid
over the kepab stick followed by a slice of lamb fat and so on …until the
stick is full to the brim and rotisered for hours.
The order is placed and paid for by weight
and delivered to your table with all the accompaniments, pickles, tomato, onion,
sauces……..sigh!
DIYET Baklava, the oldest baklava shop on the Asian side,
born in 1956. Turkish baklava differs due to it being made of honey, not sugar syrup like the Greeks do. This forms a much heavier, chewier sweet that was once only
served in the home. The owner is now well into his late 80’s overseeing the production
7 days per week…..it comes in many forms including the famous Tel Kadiyif with a crunch pastry top and Durum all washed
down with chai.We could only but lick our fingers.
It has certainly been a food mecca of all tastes and it wasn’t
over yet. Stop #11 proved to be another taste challenge at the local Kimyon
restaurant.
Famous for its beef tongue in lentil soup served with hot lavash. In we went. Sweet, creamy lentil soup with chunks of melt in your mouth beef
tongue, we were sold and once again the kids just went for it.
By all accounts this stop was JUST a pizza/pide shop….but
wait there’s more! Once again meeting the lovely, shy owners of this café we
were taken straight to the kitchen to watch the preparations of the “Black Sea
Pide” skilfully tossing his pastry about, he got down to business stuffing it
full of spinach, cheese and finely minced meat then rolled into what was shaped
as a sword……We were then asked to go next door to their restaurant and sat waiting
for our next mouth explosion.It did not disappoint…..steaming just out of the oven hotness, cheesy pide sliced to perfection covered in fresh yoghurt and chilli oil! Wow, licked the plates clean – NEXT!
Sig Cofte means “raw” “meatball”, not unlike a steak tartare in flavour or kibbeh in texture. In the past it was made with raw meat, however due to health regulations it has transformed into a vegetarian dish….cracked Bulghar, tomato, pepper paste, herbs and spices. All kneaded together to form a large ball. This specific fast-food shop only serves this one item and is eaten like an Asian san choy bow, deliciously wrapped up in a lettuce cup with mint
THE FINALE' and the one the kids have hounded Latif about all
day…Dondurma in Turkish means “freezing”. Traditionally made with mastic sap
from the mastic tree to make it stretchy. Today we were eating dondurma with a
knife and fork and it didn’t disappoint……..The usual flavours with a twist of
mastic….happy kids.We were then treated to a Turkish delicacy known as chicken breast. A sweet pudding with finely streaked chicken breast through it topped with cinnamon, mmmmm not sure about that one!
Today was an amazing highlight of our trip to Istanbul. It
really took us all on a journey to the old world of food and eating habits, it
highlighted the freshest of ingredients and locally sourced in season market
stalls. Thank you to Latif, Leisa and Istanbul On Food. When in Istanbul make sure you look up at this sensational, unforgettable foodie tour. www.istanbulonfood.com
mmmmmm Al hungry now!
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