Karavos to Marmari - One hell of a sail and the toughest docking ever.... Meltimi madness!

We left Karavos at 12:20, only a 28 mile run, the wind on the port beam looking like 10-15 knots. By 12:30 the sails were up all the way to the top but still motoring in the light breeze. At 1:10 the engines were shut down in a growing wind but at 2:30 we turned into the wind and dropped the main to the first reef. At 9-10 knots it was still feeling like we had too much sail up so into the wind again and dropped it to the second reef. Basically half the normal mainsail area and we only let the headsail out to about half way...

We were still doing better than 9 knots but were comfortable with the balance. It was now blowing 30 - 35 knots, gusting over 40! Probably the biggest we've sailed in, but a short fetch to the shore, so it was smooth enough and most enjoyable.

The journey went way quicker than expected, but she was still howling when we reached Marmari and as the Book says, it is well protected from the Meltimi but to expect some 'vicious' gusts coming down off the peaks.. Well 'vicious' understated the situation we faced.

There were a few mooring options, but we decided to take the one with the most room, much against Will's wishes. He wanted to be closer to the action. A long wall running away from the ferry terminal, but the tie up options were limited and deceiving. It took ages to position and ready the boat in the cross wind. It was going to need Will to hop from the dinghy to the shore when we got close enough in order to take the lines, thread them through very low, old, rusty hoops halfway down the wall and clogged with old rope.

We got there. Will hopped no shoes. First mistake. The concrete was too rough for even his tough little feet. No time to winge son, just get that line through that hoop, I'm losing her... Poor little guy. Then along came a helper, he got the line through, double wrapped it to stop the boat from sliding along the wharf and left. It would have taken a hour to get it all sorted but we finally did. High fives, cold class of Rose' and then the dreaded....... "Captain!"


Port police on the wharf. "When did you arrive?" "How long are you staying because there is a problem, you can't stay here".

A huge ferry was about to arrive and with this wind, the Captain was apparently worried he'd hit us!

"Bit late for that darling!" he was already there, reversing. No time to move, just watch and hope!

He did an amazing job to the general relief of all spectators, not least of all, us.


One of the spectators happened to be 'Serial George' who spoke good English, had some experience in tying up yachts, which was liberally dispensed as he suggested what we should do whilst in Marmari. Where we should go, where we should shop and where we should eat. He finally left us to get on with our lives.

That evening we wondered into town. Nice place. The wind had settled, kids were sorted in one of the two playgrounds and Sal and I found a neat waterfront cafe for an attitude adjuster.

Who should join us? You guest it... Old mate George. Night fell and another ferry arrived! "You'll be fine" says George. "I'll take a look anyway thanks bud". "Take my bicycle" he suggested. I did.

Another great piece of captaincy by the ferry driver, just a lot of wash but we were pretty well secured so no biggie.

Serial George

"Ok George, where should we eat?"

We had to say, he came through. Down a back street to the best steak we've experienced in Greece. We would never have found the place even if directed.

Packed with locals, George acting like a regular, the waiter apologising that he only served meat. No apology needed mate, fillet steak medium rare please, and it was perfect.

George pulled up a pew, drank half of Sally's Red but didn't eat. He did tell us his life story though. Two children, one Colombian, one French etc, etc, etc.

We had two more days to get to Lavrion where we intended to winter the boat but our Wind App told of a massive southerly on the day we planned to sail there.

Not wanting our journey to end but safety being the first consideratio, we reluctantly decided to make the next day's sail our last for this season....

We woke to this serine, surreal scene realising how it could all have gone so horribly pear shaped at the final bell, but instead turned out to be a delightful last stop.

....and if you think they ever update the menu in Greece, here is some rock hard evidence to prove otherwise!