Saturday 14 June 2014

Levkas for the last time

Although many yachties either winter here or use it as their long term base to sail the Ionion, we see Levkas as a place to get stuff done. There are all the services here for anything you may 'need'. On this occasion it was new mirrors for the bathrooms. You would all appreciate how important it is to see ourselves clearly in the mirror these days....

We would have been better off arriving on the Monday rather than Wednesday because once again we hadn't picked the public holiday which simply added three days to our stay.

I wasn't going to blog this period because I felt that Levkas (the town) and Levkada (the island) had been covered in previous blogs. However the last time we were here it was wet and cold and we didn't get out much. This time it was 35degrees and blue skies and we got out a lot..... Here are some of the highlights


As a reminder, Levkas Harbour 7:00am. A change we noticed was the smell. As the temperature rises, so too the smell of illegally drained yachts toilet tanks and the town sewage in the harbour.

No tide, no flow.... no go!
These guys are amazing. They go way out to sea in these tiny little boats in the middle of the night, returning at 7:00ish with their meagre catch and spend the rest of the day repairing their nets.

The predominant fish in these parts are Sea Bream, Sea Bass (mostly farmed) Squid and Octopus, Sardines and White Bait (anchovies)

Served grilled the way they do it here, absolutely delicious with a cold carafe of house white. 


As we had nothing to do but wait for mirrors, wash, scrub and do housework (come back the Monday morning Chinese cleaning team, all is forgiven!) We hired a car and sought out places that would suit both us and the kids...
Taverna with view of the beach and/or pool  for us....
Beach and/or a pool for the kids!

Parents of the Year potential, Yes?
We chose the East Coast first. Swimming pools are the go here. Walk into the hotel like you own the place, order the drinks en-route to the pool, find your spot on a deck chair, throw the kids into the pool and who is going to tell you to move...

Well, this place did. They close the pool for siesta at 3:00pm?? where better to siesta I asked?
So we moved to 'The Beach Bar' which looked inviting as we passed it on our way south.
On arrival it looked good. Nice long jetty to dive off, plenty of thatched umbrellas with free sun beds to lie on, hot and cold running waiters and plenty of eye candy for Mum and Dad.... and lots of flies??

Will, Summer and I went for a dive off the jetty, lovely refreshing water and heaps of fun. Will noticed a sand bar some way up the beach and he and Summer decided to swim to it. It looked challenging, but if they ran out of puff they could easily make the beach.

The 'sand bar' turned out to be water discoloration from the town sewer! 

That explained the flies...




On the west coast, the water is so much cleaner. It faces open sea and the topography restricts habitation which reduces pollution, although the kids were now a little ginger about swimming off a beach so pools were the go. 

This place was a real surprise. We were told there was no pool here but the beach was excellent. 

On arrival the pool wasn't obvious and the kids weren't happy. The beach looked inviting, but rocky and a ways from the taverna, so not ideal. I sat with the gear (goggles, flippers, towels, games, clothing changes, snacks, water... read pack horse) while Sal and the kids went off to investigate.

Summer returned looking a little happier saying they were no longer serving where I was sitting and that I should close my eyes as she led me to this!

Nice one! Pefkoulia Taverna and Beach if you're ever in the area. We were almost the only ones there. We did take a swim in the sea just to test the west coast theory and the theory holds true.






OK, so enough of tavernas, pools, beaches and sunbathing. The schooling has been going well, but time for an educational field trip.

The olive press. We were given a tour. William typically wasn't listening but once the lady had finished, Summer repeated her dissertation almost word for word and William found it fascinating.

This is where they dump the olives. A horse is attached to an extended pole and walks around and around until the olives are pulp.
 The pulp is then spooned between goat skins about 8 high (looked like hessian to me) and pressed. Out comes that delicious golden liquid and it is then stored in these beautiful clay earns.

This practice has only been automated since 1966.


Oh! There was an attached winery! So not only did the kids get to learn how Olive Oil is made, they now also know all about the making of Red, Rose and White wines... Home schooling hey? Brilliant!



This is the only winery on the island. They get all their grapes from local growers. The vines are in bushes rather than trellises due to the topography once again. Steep rocky slopes making it seemingly impossible to grow anything but produces the grapes for these very drinkable wines at 6Euro a bottle.

The tending and harvesting looks like it would be exceedingly hard yakka

Needles to say, The Summer Amy is now well stocked
We inquired about a lunch spot on leaving and were directed to Syvota.

Well... we could not believe we had not read, nor heard of this place! It is the biggest natural harbour we have seen, narrow entrance with a spacious bay enough to accommodate dozens of boats. Protection from all direction, plug in power and water and of course a plethora tevernas and bars. 

Unfortunately, we won't be sailing here as we now intend to put Levkada behind us and go south. Very glad we saw it though and thoroughly recommend it as a place to moor and stay a while.



Lunch lived up to the recommendation
Rock Lobster looking very much like a large Crayfish
As an aside, while in Levkas I bought a new gang plank. 

Pine 25 x 260 x 1800ml. At the timber yard I was directed, with piece of paper in hand to a non-English speaking gentleman who took me into shed 2. There was a plank of said dimensions, only too long.
I got to carry it through the machine room, passed all manner of dangerous looking cutting equipment, placed it on the drop saw, measured it off and all but cut it myself...
This photo epitomises the difference between Australian and Greek Occupational Health and Safety!
Although not a good example you do come to realise what a nanny state it is we live in back in Aus


And finally, there were the chores.

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