Monopoli, Brindisi and Otranto - bye bye Greg - hello Greece

A forty five mile day, a 9:15am start and we were in and alongside in Monopoli by 4:00pm. Once again we were warned that there may not be space for us in the harbour and when I did manage to raise somebody by radio they made it clear that wherever they were there was no room and that I should try Molo Margherita. The book told us that this would be completely occupied by the local fishing fleet.

It wasn’t. We went alongside an expansive wharf protected by a five metre high sea wall. Other yachts came and went, we had no idea where they went to, but in the end we were the only yacht on that wharf?

We have learned now that if you want to swim…. which we do, you need to stop mid passage in deep, calm, blue water, put out an emergency line and go for a dip. Ahhhhh..

One small issue. We were standing on deck after the swim when Erwin suddenly said... "what the fuck is that?" We looked to where he was pointing and something that resembled a large shark came up right where we were swimming!

In Monopoli we discovered a difference. A short walk along the sea wall and an archway takes you to an expansive paved area and the clean water on the other side of the sea wall. To be able to swim is a big deal because without needing to be told we were informed that Italy is in the middle of a heat wave… duh!

The cool came, we spruced up and promenaded our way into the old town. Typically beautiful, this town’s way of celebrating without fireworks was with this moving pattern splashed across several walls and reflecting off the water. 

The effect is mesmerizing. A great meal… again, and back to the boat for some cards, wine and laughter.

Brindisi the next stop and the final port of call for Greg Fraser. Leaving Monopoli wasn't easy. We were being forced against the wall by a stiff NE making it difficult to get off. 

A catamaran is badly effected by wind as it hits one hull on the outside and also whistles through the gap between the hulls effectively doubling the windage. Some expert fending by the boys, two engines, one full forward, the other full reverse and we managed to get off.

At 10:05 on the 7^th August, we started the 36 mile sail and were alongside the fuel dock at the Brindisi Marina by 3:30. I was expecting a big old industrial town. The harbour, due to a breakwater more than a kilometre long, is huge. Two options, the marina, a 15 Euro cab ride from town, but with power and water or keep going right into the guts of the harbour and go alongside a stunning promenade right in town, no power but water we were apparently not supposed to use…..

No brainer. I went to the Marina Office to investigate the possibility of wintering the boat here. I had emailed a few days prior to arriving and the manager instantly remembered my name but apologised for not having the means to extract the boat and put her on the hard. We chatted, he gave me all the information I needed and a nice bottle of white wine??  Not a bad start I thought.

At 3:50 we cast off again and headed into the deep reccesses of the harbour and were alongside at 4:25. 

Just such an immaculate spot. A huge rudder shaped fisherman’s memorial across the pond, restaurants a short stroll from the boat and the old town just behind the waterfront. It was a big night. Greg’s last, his taxi arranged for 9:30am so enough of a sleep in.

Not only did Greg get the full moon as a send off, it was partially eclipse too!

We had now heard from just about all ports we had requested a quote from. Preveza in Greece the most competitive by far and as I’ve mentioned, the place we actually bought this boat from. She is going to be very hard to let go, but it is a good place to sell a boat if it comes to that. This now meant that Otranto would be our Italian exit port 43 miles south and right down almost at the tip of the ‘stiletto’ of Southern Italy.

We expected a decent size port with all the facilities to take care of transiting yachts, this being the optimal exit point. Wrong. Otranto is a large harbour but a very full one. The fuel dock is ridiculously small and at the root of two long pontoons full of boats. We did need fuel though and once again the cat came through. She is just so manoeuvrable making the captain and crew look pretty damn good at this…

Before fuelling we pulled alongside a large wharf. Furled lines next to each bollard indicating these spaces were reserved but we didn’t plan to be there long. We weren’t there 2 minutes and a couple of uniformed but friendly customs guys came along. They explained what we needed to do for exit formalities and I joined them back to their office. They also made it clear that finding a spot would not be easy.

Formalities over I went in search of help finding a spot and to suss the fuel dock and plan how to get in. The ‘help’ found it difficult not to laugh. I could see heaps of space to moor, but he assured me they were all reserved and everybody would be in by 8:00. Our only option was to anchor in the bay. 





Imagine our disappointment. Our last night in Italy, I have neglected to mention that our dingy battery died in Brindisi, and we are stuck out in the bay.

We anchored near the ‘beach’ on the far side from the marina and to our surprise the water was clean, clear and inviting. In no time we were very happy with the arrangement and it meant an easy and early start in the morning. We would cook on board. 

Come 9:00ish Erwin declared he was taking the paddle board in and would return with pizza! The pizza here really is good..... I mean really good. Less than an hour later he was back with dry pizza. How he managed it in the constant swell coming into the bay without falling off that paddle board or soaking the pizzas I will always marvel at and the pizza was really, really good.

An early night, a 6:00am start for a record 94 mile, twelve and a half hour sail to Greece. Lakka Bay to be precise. One of our all time favourite places to stop. 

This shot being the very tip of the stilletto of Italy. Bye and thanks Italy!