Italy to Greece and the final chapter of the season.

Lakka Bay…. Twelve and a half hours with a gentle breeze behind us got us to this beautiful place. 

At some point we needed to change the flag. We had kept the Greek flag as a souvenir, a little worse for wear but it felt good to get it out again. 

Of course being early August, every man and his boat agree on Lakka Bay's attraction and they’re all here. Finding a spot that late in the afternoon wasn’t that easy and as the wind shifted so too did we until we finally dropped a stern anchor just to stop us from swinging.

The battery on our dingy is cactus so the boys swam in and I brought dry clothes and towels on the paddle board. If you need to know anything about Paxos, the island where you find Lakka Bay, I suggest you go back to the very early posts way back in 2014. It remains one of our favourite islands in Greece.

No hurry to get going in the morning we had been informed by Cleopatra Marina that whilst they can lift us out on the 12^th, there was no space in their Marina before then and that we’d need to go to Preveza Marina or on the town wall. At 10:30  on the 10^th August we weighed anchors and motored in Ionian Sea conditions (ie; glass) to Preveza.

We went alongside in the Marina for the first night but was again informed that the marina was full the following day and we’d need to vacate. I went and got us all checked into Greece. Other than that, there was not a lot we could get along with so into town for a long lunch hey chaps….?

At 10:00pm we decided we were going to the carnival…. Dodgem cars, Ferris wheel and a spinning thingo on which there is more news, but first the Ferris wheel. 

The guy on the gate looked nicely wasted with a lopsided grin on his face. He placed us in the same chair, designed for four… Up we went. We got about half way up and down we came again. Grinner's grin got bigger. "Too heavy" he says. Al vacates and waits until we’re at the top before re-embarking. 










Then around….. and around…. and around we went. Grinners grin getting larger and more lopsided on each rotation. It was as if he’d forgotten how to stop it and by the end we were all in hysterics, including Mr Grinner.

Dodgems next. Lots of parents with kids so we’d need to maintain some decorum…. We thought! 

We became the target and once again it was hysterical. Even the carnies were having fun and the news quickly got around. 

It was now time for the spinning thingo. Its has single chairs on the end of the spokes of a wheel. 

The guy placed us equidistant apart but so we could see eachother unobstructed by this massive doll in the center of the wheel. 

He allowed one little girl on who assured him she could handle it and then he just let rip. I had no idea what these things can really do when the guy at the controls lets it happen. What an absolute hoot!

In the morning, not very early you understand, we moved to the town wall. As is customary in Greece, getting tokens for the power and water was a mission. Then getting the token to work another, but the wall is where we like to be. Right in town, right opposite bars and restaurants, shops and supermarkets and the festival atmosphere which is always present when the wall is full of boats.

A much quieter evening. We had a fuel truck turning up at 7:30 to fill the tanks. This is a must if the boat is to sit for a while. The more air in the tanks, the higher chance of algae forming and blocking filters etc. 

We were scheduled for haul out at 8:00 across the water at Cleopatra Marina. Fuel guy was 5 minutes late but we made it to Cleopatra bang on time, we were directed into the slot for the travel lift but as we were going in, something unexpected happened. 

We were not warned of a strong cross current at the entrance to the slot which simply pushed us sideways at the critical moment. If not for the guy on the shore, we would be sporting some nasty damage from the concrete wharf. 

Even with the knowledge of the current, it was a difficult final mooring for the season to say the least!

And so, out she came. We are in a decent spot in 'Cat Alley' not too far from the amenities with power and water and everything half the price of anywhere else. 

So, I'm very happy with the final outcome. We are booked through to the 12th May next year but no idea what will actually happen.

She remains on the market....

I’ll close with some stats:

We stopped at 30 places in Croatia, Italy and Greece

1049 Nautical Miles

152.9 Hours on the Port Engine

152.6 Hours on the Starboard Engines

1,262 Litres of Fuel
We have had an absolute hooooooot!

Monopoli, Brindisi and Otranto - bye bye Greg - hello Greece

A forty five mile day, a 9:15am start and we were in and alongside in Monopoli by 4:00pm. Once again we were warned that there may not be space for us in the harbour and when I did manage to raise somebody by radio they made it clear that wherever they were there was no room and that I should try Molo Margherita. The book told us that this would be completely occupied by the local fishing fleet.

It wasn’t. We went alongside an expansive wharf protected by a five metre high sea wall. Other yachts came and went, we had no idea where they went to, but in the end we were the only yacht on that wharf?

We have learned now that if you want to swim…. which we do, you need to stop mid passage in deep, calm, blue water, put out an emergency line and go for a dip. Ahhhhh..

One small issue. We were standing on deck after the swim when Erwin suddenly said... "what the fuck is that?" We looked to where he was pointing and something that resembled a large shark came up right where we were swimming!

In Monopoli we discovered a difference. A short walk along the sea wall and an archway takes you to an expansive paved area and the clean water on the other side of the sea wall. To be able to swim is a big deal because without needing to be told we were informed that Italy is in the middle of a heat wave… duh!

The cool came, we spruced up and promenaded our way into the old town. Typically beautiful, this town’s way of celebrating without fireworks was with this moving pattern splashed across several walls and reflecting off the water. 

The effect is mesmerizing. A great meal… again, and back to the boat for some cards, wine and laughter.

Brindisi the next stop and the final port of call for Greg Fraser. Leaving Monopoli wasn't easy. We were being forced against the wall by a stiff NE making it difficult to get off. 

A catamaran is badly effected by wind as it hits one hull on the outside and also whistles through the gap between the hulls effectively doubling the windage. Some expert fending by the boys, two engines, one full forward, the other full reverse and we managed to get off.

At 10:05 on the 7^th August, we started the 36 mile sail and were alongside the fuel dock at the Brindisi Marina by 3:30. I was expecting a big old industrial town. The harbour, due to a breakwater more than a kilometre long, is huge. Two options, the marina, a 15 Euro cab ride from town, but with power and water or keep going right into the guts of the harbour and go alongside a stunning promenade right in town, no power but water we were apparently not supposed to use…..

No brainer. I went to the Marina Office to investigate the possibility of wintering the boat here. I had emailed a few days prior to arriving and the manager instantly remembered my name but apologised for not having the means to extract the boat and put her on the hard. We chatted, he gave me all the information I needed and a nice bottle of white wine??  Not a bad start I thought.

At 3:50 we cast off again and headed into the deep reccesses of the harbour and were alongside at 4:25. 

Just such an immaculate spot. A huge rudder shaped fisherman’s memorial across the pond, restaurants a short stroll from the boat and the old town just behind the waterfront. It was a big night. Greg’s last, his taxi arranged for 9:30am so enough of a sleep in.

Not only did Greg get the full moon as a send off, it was partially eclipse too!

We had now heard from just about all ports we had requested a quote from. Preveza in Greece the most competitive by far and as I’ve mentioned, the place we actually bought this boat from. She is going to be very hard to let go, but it is a good place to sell a boat if it comes to that. This now meant that Otranto would be our Italian exit port 43 miles south and right down almost at the tip of the ‘stiletto’ of Southern Italy.

We expected a decent size port with all the facilities to take care of transiting yachts, this being the optimal exit point. Wrong. Otranto is a large harbour but a very full one. The fuel dock is ridiculously small and at the root of two long pontoons full of boats. We did need fuel though and once again the cat came through. She is just so manoeuvrable making the captain and crew look pretty damn good at this…

Before fuelling we pulled alongside a large wharf. Furled lines next to each bollard indicating these spaces were reserved but we didn’t plan to be there long. We weren’t there 2 minutes and a couple of uniformed but friendly customs guys came along. They explained what we needed to do for exit formalities and I joined them back to their office. They also made it clear that finding a spot would not be easy.

Formalities over I went in search of help finding a spot and to suss the fuel dock and plan how to get in. The ‘help’ found it difficult not to laugh. I could see heaps of space to moor, but he assured me they were all reserved and everybody would be in by 8:00. Our only option was to anchor in the bay. 





Imagine our disappointment. Our last night in Italy, I have neglected to mention that our dingy battery died in Brindisi, and we are stuck out in the bay.

We anchored near the ‘beach’ on the far side from the marina and to our surprise the water was clean, clear and inviting. In no time we were very happy with the arrangement and it meant an easy and early start in the morning. We would cook on board. 

Come 9:00ish Erwin declared he was taking the paddle board in and would return with pizza! The pizza here really is good..... I mean really good. Less than an hour later he was back with dry pizza. How he managed it in the constant swell coming into the bay without falling off that paddle board or soaking the pizzas I will always marvel at and the pizza was really, really good.

An early night, a 6:00am start for a record 94 mile, twelve and a half hour sail to Greece. Lakka Bay to be precise. One of our all time favourite places to stop. 

This shot being the very tip of the stilletto of Italy. Bye and thanks Italy!

Vieste on the Spur and Trani

Something none of us is able to explain is why we left this paradise so early, only to swelter away the afternoon in Vieste harbour where we couldn’t swim? I did have to collect my dive tank at 8:00am so when we got back to the boat it all just rolled from there and by 9:00am we were sailing. We could so easily have stayed there till 3:00pm and then headed off. 

I guess we are in a hurry and can’t shake that feeling?

What is more frustrating is that we have decided that Sicily is too far and not a good place to sell a boat so we are now scrambling for places to leave her for the winter on the boot of Italy or across to Preveza in Greece were we originally bought her.

Vieste is right on point of the spur at the back of the Italian boot. The locals tell us that it is World famous with a top 10 place in the “Best places to holiday” book on the best places to holiday? 

Well, it’s not bad. Not good looking from the water, it took some walking to find the old town which we eventually did and found it typical but not special. 

Tiny cobbled streets, outside restaurants and summer holiday crowds. They do know how to charge but. 140 euro for one night, it has been as low as 70 euro in these parts.

Late start the next day, the idea being we stop mid sea for a swim and avoid the super-hot part of the day couped up in a breathless harbour. 11:15 on the 5^th August we cast off and headed for Trani, 40 miles further south.

Now here is a town that can take a bow. The only natural harbour in Italy we are told and from any angle it is beautiful. 

No derelict old building, excellent restoration work everywhere making the ancient look new but still ancient.

A complicated slime line mooring assisted by a guy who really didn’t know what he was doing. Each time I indicated what needed to be done I was met with the 'hand' until eventually I raised my voice above the hand and told him what we were going to do. He complied because it became obvious we were going nowhere under his supervision and.... we really have done this a few times now.

No matter, we made friends got dressed and headed in for a long walk to one fascinating end of town and back to the boat for a home cooked meal of lovely meaty bits I could not resist buying at the cooked chook shop. 

Just as dinner ended and again, right in front of our boat, another fireworks display. Not as long as the last but every bit as impressive, the natural harbour shores were packed with holiday makers.

After dinner we made for the other end of town. Al couldn't help himself when he noticed a word along the harbour wall with 'AL' in it. Confusing the diners right behind him, here was the outcome:

Trani is immaculate and beautiful wherever we ventured but the crowds had also moved in after the fireworks and it was hot. 

This did nothing to dampen the atmosphere but we never did find out what they were celebrating.

Termoli and the stunning Tremiti Islands

9:55 on the 1^st August we cast off, dropped the slime lines and made for Termoli some 35 Miles away.

So tired are we of the heat and not being able to swim that on the way we went far out to nicer looking water, stopped the boat, ran a long line off the back as a safety measure and dived in. Had some lunch, stopped the boat again and repeated.

Termoli is a resort town with Castles, cobbled streets and outside restaurants.

The beach is as you see it here, literally kilometre upon kilometre of beach umbrellas and sun beds. Everybody in Europe is now on holiday but they're not here, only Italians.

It is hot so the routine is park the boat, wash the boat, pour a spritzer and play cards, relax & doze until it cools.

Termoli is a beautiful place, lots of old restaurants with ancient vaulted brick ceilings and the food… We were told that if there was a good reason to sail the east coast of Italy, it would be for the food. 

We agree. All the good work I have done to diminish the midriff has gone to pot. As our new Italian friends would say…. “this is a Champagne problem”

Needless to say it was a great meal and a slow start the next day. It was 11:30 before we cast off and headed for the Tremiti islands.

That tiny spec in the Adriatic, not to be attempted in anything but settled weather we were so looking forward to a real swim. 

Only 23 miles out to sea and we could see the water depth and quality improving by the mile. 

I would thoroughly recommend you try to get to this place but in your own or a mate’s boat is the only way to do it. The alternative is to cram onto a huge ferry and when you get there, cram onto other smaller boats that can take you to the caves, nice beaches or the monastery.

We anchored, swam, played cards, swam, ate and swam some more until everybody left. We then hopped into the dingy and went exploring. The coves with their white sand and the clearest water we have seen anywhere. The big cave was spotted on our way in. We had it so much to ourselves, we were able to tie up inside the cave and snorkel and dive through underwater holes that lead to the outside or to another cave.

A long awaited home cooked Spag Bol on the boat, a late night naked paddle board for Al and it was decided that given we had been pushing so hard, we would spend two nights in the magical place.

Sorry ladies, I only have a picture of Greg on the paddle board for his first outing and he has his pants on...

On the 3^rd of August we whiled away the day, mostly in the water and watching all those poor wretched tourists sardined onto boats to get into the boat queue to visit the cave… time for one photograph and NEXT!

We took a long dingy ride, circling two of the three islands. We investigated this building, so close to collapsing that I felt very uncomfortable standing on top of that turret. On the way back to the dingy we sprung a couple mid-act but seeing us didn’t seem to deter them one iota...  Given the nature of this place, who could blame them?

A pub crawl of three pubs on one island because we had decided to eat on the other island with the monastery. I got the scuba tank refilled for 10 euro at the only dive centre we’ve seen in a while headed back to the boat for a spruce up and, now that once again everybody had gone, had a pretty much exclusive look at and from this construction.

A fantastic meal and home for a nightcap.  

San Bernadetto and Ortona - lovely places, lovely people

A slightly less boisterous evening saw us wave farewell to Phil at 8:00 and we were gone by 9:00 for a longish 48 Mile sail down to San Bernadetto. We are moving now as time is running out, only spending an afternoon and night in each place, but that is generally enough to get a good taste of it.

San Bernadetto was a very pleasant surprise. As you enter the harbour, which like all of them on this coast has extensive breakwaters, only here they have turned theirs into a sculptured promenade with nearly all the huge rocks used to top the breakwater having been sculpted and interspersed with larger art pieces.

Like this novel drinking fountain!

The next surprise was they had a hard time accommodating us, but when they did, it turned out that we had the grand stand view of the 45 minute fireworks display out in the harbour. It was the climax of the annual fishing tournament and their party went all night. 

There was a popup canteen serving all manner of delicious Italian fare like mussels, calamari, pasta, meats and vegies, the catch being a very long queue.. The meal was 12 euro, a litre of cold white wine was 2 euro…. Needless to say we pigged out!

The fireworks were truly spectacular and very well done. Not bad when said by somebody from Sydney. This shot taken on an iPhone with no zoom to give you an idea.

Oh, and if youve ever wondered why they are called slime lines...

At 10:15 on the 31^st July, we cast off and sailed for Pescara some 35 miles south. Half way there we decided to push on a little further to a smaller, more attractive looking town of Ortona. An example of how few travellers frequent this coast was when I radioed quite some way out just to ensure we could get a spot. A very helpful lady responded but after taking all our details, asked why we were coming there, were we having engine problems?? No I said. It just looks like a nice place to stop and indeed it was.

The harbour is vast but very shallow. The town is a long way up a big hill. Marco, the guy who assisted our mooring was very friendly and helpful, told us how to get to town by bus and where to go. We swam at a nearby beach… yuk and pottered  until it cooled, caught the 7:00pm bus to town, wondered about taking it all in and discovered a tiny restaurant in a back street called Al Vecchio Tiatro and gauged yet again. You have just gotta love this food!

Getting home was not so easy. We were directed in one of two ways down the hill. We split up for the hell of it to see who got there first. Well I don’t know about Al and Greg but Erwin and I found ourselves in a construction site at the base of the hill with no discernible way across a soft top fence and 6 railway lines. Somehow we managed it all undetected and met with Al and Greg as soon as we got across. Earlyish night, some provisioning to do in the morning…

I went to pay and collect my boat papers from Marco and asked where I could get fresh bread and large bottles of water. “In town” he saw the look on my face and said.. “just take my scooter.”  How’s that for hospitality? I found a bakery which had just churned out fresh loaves. They were still hot when I got back to the boat. 

Ancona

The last time I was here was in 1983, I was with Phil Hayman then too. We caught a ship from here to Alexandria on our way to Capetown by motor bike with Pete Sutcliffe, Pam Rosengren and Les Walker. Arriving here by catamaran some 34 years later in the middle of another adventure brought a smile to our faces.

Google Meiser Al got us the ungettable spot in the harbour. The choices were the marina, miles out of town, the commercial port where we could not leave the boat in case we’d have to move and then there was the yacht club situated around a building which was built for the pope and became a quarantine station. It is close to the action and outdoor bars with live music and a short walk to the old town and my favoured piazza’s.

Al managed to track down the owner of a tiny restaurant on the periphery of the wall nestled in a small gap on the water. I called him and he said just come on in and he’d find us a spot. So we did and he was true to his word. 

A very different mooring right in the very inner harbour among commercial fishing boats, an odd assortment of small craft and yachts parked bow to shore. Once again they were not used to seeing a catamaran, or a foreigner and we were most welcome.

Not long after we moored, the smiling face of Greg Fraser appeared at the dock and in no time it all started to get out of hand. A few drinks on the boat a couple of rounds of cards until the day cooled, spruced up and as Greg had already been in Ancona for a day or so we followed him into the old town for dinner.

This is the before shot of Gregory.

It was midnight before we left the restaurant and started to make our way back to the boat. Unfortunately we had to walk right through the dancing crowd at an outdoor bar which proved an impenetrable barrier for everybody but me. I was totalled and just had to go sleep but Erwin had to get me to the boat as I had no idea where we were or where the boat was. 

We found that all the entry gates were locked but a restaurant just closing had a window that accessed the gangway to our boat. They allowed us to use their window and once Erwin had got me safely home he went back to the bar chocking the gate as he exited. I was followed by Phil and Al shortly thereafter. At around 4:00am it was time for Erwin to get Greg home without falling off the gang planking into the putrid harbour water. Once Greg was safely on the boat, Erwin went back to the bar!

Greg was accommodated in the Captains cabin. A small single bed in the Port Bow accessible through a deck hatch. 

Close by that hatch is the foot well for the outside front seating. Phil was woken by a loud bang. He stood on his bed and stuck his head out of his hatch to see a pair of feet sticking out of the foot well. That was Greg’s third fall for the evening. 

Late breakfast and Greg came hobbling to the cockpit, bashed and bruised and sporting a very saw hip and a look of “What the!” and a few scrapes on his face…. 

This is the morning after shot. Greg declaring "that was a great start, at least I have 10 days to recover!"  Dream on buddy...

Erwin got home at sunup. 

A very slow day. A quiet evening meal back at the piazza. Greg and I stopped at the bar for a couple and a dance but it wasn’t long before the entire boat was tucked up and gone for the night.

At 8:00 on Sunday the 30^th I was woken by Phil. He was leaving to fly home. We were very sad to see him go but at least Greg gets a double cabin. Fly safe Phil. Catch you in Sydney.