Before we departed Sigacik, we called Alacati Marina to reserve a spot for a few days knowing that this is a bucket list venue.. I was told in no uncertain terms that they simply had no space for a catamaran. I persisted, they resisted, they won...
Not to be deterred, Alacati is a large bay that has become number 3 in the world for wind surfing championships. Whilst it sits on the southern or lee side of the peninsula, the land to the north is low lying so the Meltimi (prevailing and sometimes treacherous northerly wind) blows straight through the bay but the 'fetch' is too short to kick up a big swell making it perfect for wind generated sports like wind and kite surfing.... but not so attractive, although not impossible as an anchorage and our least favoured option.
The entrance to the bay is lined with channel markers keeping arriving and departing boats away from the main wind surfing area, but of course any arriving boat becomes a challenge to any or all wind surfers so it's like a game of dodgems on the way in or out.
Alacati is an absolute must do if you come to Turkey. It is frequented by the well heeled from Izmir and Istanbul but few non-Turkish residence. (read no foreign tourists) and reminds me a little of Noosa but with loads more history and Turkish sophistication thrown in. So, we have no place to moor but a very windy bay... Enter Al the Google Meister!
He noticed a canal north of the marina labelled 'private moorings' went to AirBnB and found two of the villas with private mooring for rent. Made some inquiries and got in touch with Kerim. We didn't want the villa, just the mooring and after some to-ing and fro-ing it started to look promising.
For some reason, communications ceased right up to the point we got to the entrance to the canal leading to the villas when finally we got the call from Kerim telling us to come on in...
Whilst this was in the nick of time, it was the easy part. There was a 20-25 knot northerly blowing straight down the canal which meant we were going to have to moor side on to the wind. In a 44ft catamaran this is almost impossible when the wind catches both hulls and forces the bow away. Kerim suggested from shore that we radio the marina for assistance.... Would the marina, the very people who had so adamantly denied us access and who would certainly remember the boat name want to help us at all. I radioed, they remembered the boat name but dispatched their tender without delay.
The tender driver skillfully kept the bow at right angles to the wind and within minutes we were snuggly in to the most prestigious mooring in Turkey. Power, water, swimming pool and gated community. Al gets to stay on the boat a while longer!
Off with the bikes and a ride to the marina to hire a car. The town of Alacati is a few clicks away and there was a winery we had to visit too...
You know, educational excursion for the kids....
Alacati the town is a gorgeous labyrinth of cobble stoned streets replete with the most inventive and innovative shops, bars, restaurants and well dressed people I have seen anywhere in this world.
Al gave Sal and I a date night while he entertained the kids. We'd had a late lunch so dinner was off the agenda but an elevated spot in a cruisy little bar with the best music that had me Shazaming all night. Margaritas and a snack of the best garlic bruschetta and lamb carpacio ever, this became our perch for the evenings people watching.
We sat their for hours watching the Turks show us how genuine sophistication is done. We were just plain and simply blown away.
The following day, a sleep in and a long drive to the winery. Difficult to find and thankfully unpopular on the day, we had the whole place to ourselves. The couple who owned the the winery grew up in the area, in fact he was the first to wind surf the bay back in 1980. After living in Detroit, Michigan for seventeen years, they bought the property eight years ago, planted all the vines and now supply high end hotels and restaurants in Izmir and Istanbul. Nothing available in retail.
Quaint but beautifully designed by her, the architect, the only food on the menu being home made pizza. That was all that was needed. Paper thin crust with topping to die for and our choice of one of their two Rose's to aid the digestion. Yummmm!
Lunch sorted, Sal asked if we could see their cellar. After a slight hesitation, we think because it was an unusual request we went underground....
Wow! Small enough to take in, big enough to store a truck load of wine. Such a wonderful space.
Naturally cooled by an exposed part of an ancient, soaking sand stone wall, Slimy and yuk to the touch but cold, this was such a privilege.
Is the boat now well stocked with great wines.... Well Hell Yeah!
So, whilst not on the international tourist agenda, if you're thinking about Turkey as a destination, spoil yourself with a few days in Alacati...
pronounced Alachate' you won't be disappointed.
No comments:
Post a Comment