Bye bye to the Peloponisos

The wind that kept is all on our toes through the night held the promise of an exciting sail south to Kythera. It was a booming North Westerly which meant we'd have it on the starboard quarter. Just like we like it, but it had completely died by the time we cast off and weighed anchor at 10:45am on the 26th July.

Kythera has for centuries been used by sea fairers as a stepping stone to Crete and the Orient. The harbour at Kythera is protected in all but a Southerly but surges are present in all wind directions. The swell, such that it is, seems to come in and rock the boats whatever the wind.






Piero, our Italian mate had caught two Tunas in two voyages, so questions as to the set up and lure just had to be asked. We were carrying some pretty good gear but had had no luck. So I upgraded our line to 80k braid, put more weight on the line to take the lure deeper, put a nice long steel trace in case of sharp teeth and a large soft plastic lure similar to the one Piero was using.

Two hours into the voyage, thankfully under motor, we heard that sound that is music to the ears of all fishermen.. The screech of the reel ratchet singing of something large and very tasty at the other end of the line....

Slapped her into neutral, ran down to the rod holder, this fish running so fast I feared it'd take all the line. Grabbed the rod from the holder, tightened the ratchet and settled as always into the paranoiac fear of losing this little beauty.

All on board now riveted to the tight line disappearing into the deep blue.

 It took and age before we had our first glimpse of our first fish. So exciting! Sally reeling off the various dishes she would prepare as soon as we identified the tuna.

We didn't get the weight but you get the picture! (that's the fish I'm talking about...)

The first dish, within minutes of dissection. Sushimi with Soy and Miso dip.




Well done Piero. I had come to this part of the world believing that everything worth anything had been fished out centuries ago. Nothing like this to restore ones faith.


So the first part of the voyage to Crete that we felt we may have needed extra crew to cope with the whims of Poseidon was as sedate as it gets. Note the seas state behind me in the shot above... it would have been ideal for wake boarding!

At 5:25pm we moored alongside the dock in Kapsali harbour, southern Kythera.

Alongside with power and water in the nicest of harbours, it doesn't get better than that.... or does it.

Fresh caught BBQ Tuna. Oh yeah!

For the first time we pulled out the electric BBQ.

I had been critical of this choice of appliance by the previous owner, I mean really, electric, not gas??
I take it all back Ken, once on town power, this was perfect. Light, easy to clean, very compact, non- stick, easy to clean and an even heat across the plate. Hey? Hey? how often do you get that?

Caramalised lemons, fresh salad...Yummmmmmm!

We really did intend to spend just the one night here, but it was just too nice. The beach in town was well serviced if you get my drift? The water exquisite, the kids in their element and a Mexican restaurant... Not usually that exciting, but you know.... a change. And a huge mistake! Warning....Greeks do not do Mexican!

So we had decided to stay a couple of days and on the recommendation of a Dutch couple in Monemvasia we hired a car. There were some 'spectacular' waterfalls a reasonable drive away, some caves and beaches and off we went.

Waterfall my arse! Stagnant pools with a trickle that could be heard but not seen. Lunch under a huge Oak full of unseen cicadas screeching so loudly that conversation was impossible, then onto the caves...

Interesting. Difficult to get to but worthwhile. Large. Larger than anything we've seen in a while. In fact, large enough to accommodate a small church. Stalactites and mights and some impressive pillars millenniums in the making.

This made up for a rather disappointing day hey kids?... The day was my idea I know. OK my fault, sorry.... Yep, beach would have been better.. OK shut up now!

And so, before the big leap to Corfu we enjoyed the last of our Tuna....The Bondi Trat's signature dish.

"Angel hair pasta with raw tuna, rocket, parmesan and chilli oil." (never tried this dish at the Trat?... do yourself a favour with a chilled Rose').

I took that description straight off their web site but Sal did have to improvise a little as she always does. The result was, it has to be said, an improvement.