We grew some balls and left Tinos in the Meltemi

We decided that this wind was simply not going to quit, we have a great boat and if we prepared properly that we should git. At 4:30am when the wind should have backed off a little I got up to another howler. Al and Sal joined me at 5:00 and we battened down the hatches, prepared the life jackets, grabbed a bite and at 6:30 on the 6th July we cast off and headed out...

The plan was to stick to the SW coast of Tinos where we felt there would be wind but not waves before heading out into the big seas toward Kea once more. The aim is to get back to Lavrio to sort a few things before finally going west and toward Croatia.

Sails up on the second reef, ie; about half the full size, we headed in growing winds along the coast but the closer we got to the land, the stronger the wind? Why? Well because the sloping land down to the sea acts like the back edge of an airplane wing. As the air moves from the north over the heights of the island, in order for there not to be a vacuum, it gets 'sucked' down the descending slope picking up speed as it goes. By the time it reaches the sea it is moving much faster than at the top of the slope.

We soon found ourselves sailing in wind speeds of over 45 knots. That's 85 km/hour, and even though we were close to the coast, it was rough... We tried heading away from the land and within 500 meters we were sailing in 25 knots and surfing at around 10 knots and loving it.

Sal went back to bed.

The Med then did what the Med does.. Here is the sail log for the day, talk about inconsistent..

6:40am Sails up at Reef 2 in 45 kts wind
8:00am Sails all the way up in fading wind
8:30am Headsail furled in 7 kts wind
8:40am Mainsail down in nil wind, engines on
8:50am Fishing rod out
9:00am Headsail out in rising 15 kts wind
9:45am Mainsail up to reef 1 - engines off
10:50am Mainsail failure in 25kts wind, all sails down to assess the problem
12:55pm Anchored in Kavia Bay on Kea Island.

The Mainsail is brand new, has special ceramic rings for the reefing lines to slide through and these somehow detached.

I called Nikos, he blames his boys for not connecting them properly but assures me it is a minor problem. Just one more to deal with on arrival in Lavrio which is planned for Saturday afternoon when the charter boats vacate the harbour. None left this week due to the winds so no room at the Inn, hence our stop on Kea.

We stopped in Kavia Bay on Kea on the way to Syros but I didn't really get any shots of the little paradise, So here you go...

Although this particular spot is every bit as relaxing as it looks, it is a little expensive. 











There are two beach venues in Koundouros Bay but on the previous occasion, the second looked to be closed. 

I popped over in the dingy to take a look and was greeted by Fotis who bellowed the available facilities as I circled offshore and pointed out where I could safely moor the dingy. "I'll be back" I said and returned to the boat to collect the hoards.

This was more our speed. Laid back, rustic, very friendly and way cheaper. We were offered front row beach beds and brollies, each with a fresh towel, all free of charge.

Nice snorkeling with a decent cave to explore. The kids are now competent snorkelers and spend hours at it.

The money we saved on imbibables was spent on entertainment for the kids... that includes Al!

We were going to stay just the one night, but Fotis offered to drive us to the nearest TV to watch the France v Germany match. 

So the girls had a night in while Al, Will and I were driven to a teverna a few k's down the coast where it took two men to carry the old school TV out and connect it up so we could watch the game. 

We were fed while we watched and when the match ended well after midnight, we were driven home...

The Greeks never fail to amaze.

Trapped on Tinos by the Meltemi 5 days down at least 5 to go!

In the northern hemisphere, the air rotates clockwise around a high pressure system and anti-clockwise around a low pressure system.. Right now we have a huge high camped over central Europe and a low over southern Turkey. So, imaging these two wheels rotating towards each other generating a wind which just happens to be blasting in a southerly direction straight down the Aegean Sea and directly at where we are now moored in Tinos Harbour. It is very very windy and this wind is called, the Meltemi, or as we describe it.. The Sow. It blew us apart on the way to Syros. It filthied the boat in Mykonos and it is now holding us hostage in Tinos... It is apparently all the fault of Boreas, the Greek God of the Cold North Wind who mourned the loss of his children here by unleashing these winds.

We have been here for five days, we'd planned two or three and our wind app shows us that it will continue for as far into the future as the app can go. So here we sit. 

There are worse places to be. Tinos is a delight and well worth the visit..

It is famous for its healing powers. Pilgrims come in their droves and literally crawl on hands and knees the 500 or so meters from the water, up the main drag to the church at the top of the hill. Then onto the red carpet (red in order to disguise the bloody knees) and into the Church where the Virgin Mary heals their ailments or those of their loved ones.. 

Now doesn't that sound like a fun way to spend a Sunday? .

We may give that one a miss even though the townsfolk have laid a strip of carpet all the way to make it a little less uncomfortable.

So, what to do with all this time on our hands and two kids to entertain? 

Thankfully we now have some help with that. Al Reid, our semi permanent crew member arrived from Canada, on Canada Day.

Sal hired a car and the German car rental person pointed out some items of interest on the island.

Here are some highlights...

Isternia. A misunderstanding had us looking for three tavernas in this hilltop town, one expensive and the others less so. After an extensive and interesting walk or climb with hardly a soul about, no tavernas to speak of?

The beach, hundreds of meters below on the coast was recommended, we were hungry and so we descended and what do you know? Three tavernas and all so attractively situated. 

Lets take this one as that one looks like the expensive one.... wrong!

The menu, way to good to pass up, the recommended wine had us track down the most discreet of wineries two days later and the whole experience was well worth it. 

A nice beach with the ubiquitous grass brollies to sleep it off then home to a comfy bar to watch the European cup game of the day

Volax, another hilltop town where herbs and basket weaving are the attraction. Hard to understand why, but Volax is like a 'Greek Show Town'. Winding, immaculately paved streets meander through beautifully finished homes, hidden tavernas a modern amphitheater, an ancient well surrounded by wild bursting mulberry and plum trees with the ripe fruit just there for the taking. 

As for the baskets and herbs... Happy they took us there, but certainly not the reason to visit this place.

After several phone calls and some of Sal's persuasive powers, the vintner finally agreed to open up the T-Tinos winery for us, show us around and let us sample the wares....

Thanks to the now all too familiar wind, the grapes are grown on poles rather than trellises so that the wind can pass through without stripping the vines of their leaves. 

Total planted area is 11 hectares and all but that supplied to the restaurant that introduced us to the Clos Stegasta dry white is exported. Their top customer being Alain Ducasse who operates a number of restaurants including at The Dorchester which holds three stars in the Michelin Guide. The Mavro 2011 Red will answer any questions as to why that is! 

After learning the trade in France, the Mavro 2011 was Eleni, our host's first vintage for which she is justifiably proud. 

We managed to 'sample' an entire bottle before we bought a justifiable amount.

Not cheap, but oh soooo good.

Mykonos - A cliche' we will not be returning to

We were warned.... A dusty half constructed marina where anchor chains are bound to cross. An attractive shopping precinct, over priced, over crowded and under serviced, but if you're going to do the Cyclades you do have to sample this place.

There was a very convenient 'sea bus' which docked 20 meters from our boat. This chugged us into the old harbour where, for no apparent reason yachts are no longer permitted, and into the heart of Mykonos the town.

We have been waiting to see those buildings touted on Greek Island brochures, the adobe style, brilliant white buildings with features in sky blue, mimicking the colours of the Greek flag. Well this is where you see them and as you enter the maze that is the shopping precinct, you can't help but be intrigued. 

Tiny winding alleyways with everything from cheap stuffed toy souvenir shops to Louis Vuitton, Follie Follie, Lacoste' and any expensive brand you care to name. If shopping is your thing, you will be delighted. Restaurants, champagne bars, tavernas, a map being of little or no use at all.

We found a Trip Adviser recommended restaurant Katrin. Family run since forever, named after the now long gone matriarch "Catherine" but now staffed by brothers and cousins all doing a great job. 
The meal was right up there, but then so was the bill, 375 Euro for two adults and two kids and only one bottle of wine!


Day two and Sal took the kids to town. I stayed on the boat for chores and because shopping is not my thing. I soon found myself donning the scuba gear in order to help untangle the crossed chains as yachts attempted but failed to leave.
It wasn't long before the port captain was bellowing at my neighbors that I should exit the water immediately, that only his dive guy was permitted to untangle the chains... No prizes for guessing but it has something to do with money.

Showered, changed bused into town as the 'sea bus' was now too full on the inward leg thanks to an enormous, freshly docked cruise ship. I finally caught up with Sal and the kids, had a drink and relieved her of them, Mykonos is not the place to enjoy some retail therapy with a 9 and 11 year old in tow. 

An earlyish night for an anticipated early departure for Tinos where we planned to rendezvous with our annual crew member, Al Reid from Canada. Whilst under water I did take the opportunity to ensure that our anchor chain was clear so leaving would not be a drama.

I rose early to ready the boat, the dingy needed pumping up a touch so I reached up to hang onto the solar panel frame and lower myself into it...The fishing rods live across the two bikes hanging from the same frame and as I let go, ouch!

Any fishermen reading this will be smiling right now. It was clear the hook had gone in past the barb making extraction the way it went in a non starter. I woke Sal apologetically with my little problem. She helped push the hook through so that once cut it could be pulled through.. My cutters made no impression on the stainless steel hook whatsoever so it was a case of finding somebody with bolt cutters or finding a Greek hospital.... Walking around with a lure attached,

I did find a man with bolt cutters, I found an Orthopedic surgeon with some medical alcohol and with my cutters in hand to grab the point of the hook and pull it through, we went to it. In a few moments, the hook was cut and pulled through leaving what now looks like a snake bite. A nice parting gift from Mykonos.

To Mykonos via Kea and Syros and the meanest Meltemi caning yet..

Not a good season so far for the 'Sow'. My name for the Meltemi, that vicious wind the blows down the Aegean sea from somewhere between the Russian Steps and Northern Turkey.

Although it wasn't too tough, it kept us in Lavrio port for four days until we had no choice but to make a run on Friday the 24th.... That is because on Fridays all the charter yachts return to the port and there is no room for us. 
We did manage to drive down the Sunio Peninsular a couple of times and enjoy a little of what it has to offer...

Fortunately on the day, the wind was behind us and we anchored in the most surprising Kavia Bay on Kea Island after a fantastic first sailing outing for the season with brand new sails .

In the last two seasons we have circumvented the Cyclades islands. These are the ones Greece is famous for that lie south east of Athens. We had considered them a little touristy and having spent so much time in Greece we figured it was time to head for Croatia. This may have been a mistake. 

We thought we'd sample a few before Al arrives on the 1st July and so far we have found them quite impressive.

Nothing extraordinary about Kavia Bay itself but a perfect anchorage with clear waters and plenty of room. What did take us by surprise was the one taverna ashore. A cut above anything we have experienced. Tasteful and appropriate accommodation, spacious outdoor bar and restaurant, neatly laid out brollies and sun beds and even a foot shower for sandy feet..... 
Oh, and the food!.





The Sow had blown itself out and we woke to a calm morning and our ever reliable wind predicting app gave us the prospect of a smooth sail to Syros.
An early start for a 40 mile run, at 8:15 on Saturday the 25th June we weighed anchor and within 20 minutes had all sails up in a light 15 knot northerly. As we rounded the southern tip of the island the headsail came in when the wind dropped as predicted. With the Mainsail still up, motors on, all hatches open, we settled in for the calm run.... Then Bang!

The Sow awoke with vicious intent and within 10 minutes we went from 10 knots on the port beam to 35 in bucking seas. 
The hatches! By the time we reacted the port cabins were inundated. Mattresses soaked, floors awash, bilges filled as we attempted to remedy the situation inside what felt like a washing machine on a quick cycle...
And it just got worse. For the second time ever we had the kids in life jackets and for the first time ever both Sal and I donned ours. We still had another 30 miles to go in this! So much for that app..

The town of Ermoupolis on Syros is the most impressive we have seen. This is not just because it offered relief from the severe beating we had taken, but, according to Thanasis, it was once the capital of Europe. It was where the fur from Russia was distributed throughout Europe and its wealth is evidenced by the fact that all streets and ally ways behind the building lining the tidiest of quays are paved in white marble.



A motorcyclist's nightmare but stunning to look at and such a pleasure to meander through.

Thanasis, the man who takes care of the yachties could not have been more pleasant, helpful and apologetic about having to charge us a pittance to stay. Port taxes of €7.50 per day, free power and water and one free shower for Sal and I, otherwise €2. We never bother, the boat shower is just fine.

Free power in 30 degrees means air -con a must. A separate plug in point on the boat so two cables required  from the box. Normal power came on right away, but the air-con would not start. We have had problems of melting connections before because the air-con draws so much power so a start point was to check the wiring in all the connections.. To the box, to the boat and then to the internal system... 


Methodically, in sweltering heat I went about the task revealing no problems with any of them. Tried the air-con again, no joy.
Ok, next attempt was to simply circumvent the plugs and temporarily hard wire the system just to make sure it wasn't the plugs. No joy.... 
Sal had mentioned the switch on the main board, but the one she was talking about was for when the generator was driving the power and not the mains.. Well, nothing for it but to try that switch! It was rather like dismantling the entire engine only to find you'd run out of petrol! 
What a dick! Sal to the rescue... again!

We had given ourselves one day in Ermoupolis before heading to Mykonos but it just simply grew on us. What was our hurry? It is surely for us the nicest town in all of Greece. So three days of getting the boat back into livable condition, drying mattresses, mopping salty floors, washing decks and emptying bilges. Swanning the marble streets in the cool of the day, sampling cafe's and restaurants and for madam, some retail therapy, just because. 

A neighboring boat suggested a restaurant they had stumbled upon purely by chance. By day it is just a nondescript door right opposite the Opera house which is apparently a mini version of La Scala. At night it opens to what looks like a private court yard and served what Sal puts as the best meal she has eaten in Europe... Octopus cooked in red wine with a fava bean mash. So simply, so amazing.

Mykonos lies only 18 miles due east of Ermoupolis. The Sow had slumbered so at 12:20 on the 28th, we cast off to a fond Thanases farewell and a hearty thanks for spending some money in his beloved town and motored on calm seas to Mykonos. 

Nobody seems to like this place, particularly the dusty half built marina and we had decided to anchor in a bay south of the town but on arrival decided to take a look inside the marina just in case. This decision was reinforced by the rising northerly wind which hinted at our last unpleasant experience.

We were greeted and shown where we should moor, so we did.

This marina is renowned for crossed anchor chains and it is obvious why. Before reversing onto the quay, you need to drop your anchor literally between the bows of the boats on the opposite quay and if you are not straight when you tie up, you will almost definitely have crossed somebody's chain. We have med moored well over 100 times so no biggie for us, but then, in they came. Charter yachts with no idea. OMG. 


This is a yacht that has so far spent an hour trying to extricate. So we sit here in the re-awakened Sow with at least two chains across ours and no prospect of leaving until they do.

Floating, sailing and family unites.

So Friday the 17^th June rolled around and the boat was super ready to go back into the water. The 200 tonne Travel lift surrounded us and without warning lifted us (us being me and the boat) off its stand point while I was sitting at the nav desk.... Oh!

Um, so we were not so super ready after all. One of the winter jobs I had requested was that the anchor chain be repainted. 

I get that you may be asking yourself why I’d want to paint the anchor chain…? Well, not the entire chain. There is over 100 meters of it and somehow, when anchoring you need to know how much chain has gone out. First 30 meters, one meter of green paint, next thirty, yellow paint and so on. The entire chain was still laid out on the ground where they had painted it!

I have never used the anchor winch without the engines running, in fact I was instructed at the outset that this was the only way and so I tried everything short of starting the engines. 

The boat must be in the water to start the engines because they use sea water as their coolant and simply won’t start without it. 

Eventually we called an electrician who figured out a way to short circuit the windlass motor and in a few minutes the anchor was in and snug.

Once again, without warning the boat became airborne and we were off! Occupational Health and Safety, pah… this is Greece! I wanted to take a few photos and collect my bicycle which was parked between the hulls so I climbed down the swim ladder and jumped whilst the whole show was on the road. Nobody batted an eyelid.

Nikos the sail maker suggested I did not take the boat directly to Lavrio Port on Friday because Saturday was the changeover day for 200 plus charter boats and the port would be packed. 

He would meet me on Sunday morning 8:00am sharp, we would depart the marina, hoist the new sails to ensure they existed and he would then crew for me to Lavrio Port and get me a prime spot on one his mate’s moorings. 

Sunday the 19^th, sunrise.

Some final preparations, morning constitutional and at 8:00am on the dot Nikos arrived and off we went. The new sails looked glorious and within an hour we were parked in said prime position in Lavrio Port, power, water, 25 Euros. Woopdidoo!!

Thank you Nikos for the sails, the advice and the help in getting us to Lavrio

There were a few little last minute jobs to do before Sal and the kids arrived. Her last trip to the airport cost 80Euro. Nikos to the rescue. "My cousin is a taxi driver, he will pick her up..." 50Euro. He had done the same for me on my arrival. What a legend!

A nanna nap while the kids got back to movie watching until the cool of the evening (30 degrees!) We wondered over to the main piazza to sample the local atmosphere. William took his soccer ball as always and within minutes had a four man game going while Mum and Dad watched on, cold Vodka tonic in hand.

The 2016 Season begins...

Well, I’m back at the boat. I spent three solid weeks on the hard in this desolate boat yard at the end of last season and now it’s as if I never left. 

The Summer Amy is immaculate. She has been kept spotless, all the silverware is glinting in the evening sun,her bottom has been anti fouled, her hulls have been polished, brand new sails have been fitted and I am slowly remembering all the jobs I did during those three weeks. 

I have my music blaring because I can while I contemplate the season to come. 

The plan is to launch on Friday, test the sails on Sunday with the sail maker who will also serve as crew to get me to Lavrion harbour where we rendezvous with Sal, Will and Summer. There we will provision the boat and head off for the summer.

Now here is a real cutie. NOT. These birds are the scourge of any boat yard. They will find the perfect spot to nest somewhere in your boat rigging. 

Last year it was up the back of the boom and unfortunately when I was clearing out the nest, it came with two eggs and a newly hatched chick....

I was gutted. All that time building a nest, laying eggs, one chick out, two to come and along comes this human!

I caught this little guy in the act of building a nest in one of the davits that hold the dingy. I thought my presence would deter any further action but when I rose this morning he was in full swing. I had to vacuum out the pipe just behind that wheel and in front of the white string and tape up the entrance underneath while this little guy perched only a few yards away and complained. Once I was done, he just could not figure it out and with that feather in his mouth persisted for a good half hour before giving up and probably losing his mate as a result! Humans!

Now, just for our record, I would like to briefly record an intense 8 months in the Southern Hemisphere between seasons.... 

Sal spent 12 weeks in total helping her mum in her final days and then assisting Paul in finding more practical digs, furnishing them and basically setting him on an entirely new life trajectory.

Sal shouted her Mum the lifetime bucket list item, a cruise. Paul was never interested, a sentiment to which I related but I persuaded him that if he went, I’d go. We all knew it would be the last item on Maureen’s list before she left us and so it was only fitting.

I had never seen Maureen happier. She was in her element. The day we disembarked was the day she was admitted to hospital and within two weeks she was gone. Rest in Peace Mausie, we are so glad we joined you on that cruise.

Her passing delayed our ski trip to Big White, Canada by a couple of days and changed our Christmas plans somewhat, from a family do at our house to a wake in Queensland. We did get to enjoy the best season Big White had seen since the 80’s. The skiing was sensational, although Sal had a nasty wipe out in a total white out and injured her shoulder and knee. The knee injury persists. Mark also broke his thumb. What’s the matter with these people?

I then went fishing with a bunch of mates to Weipa at the very top of Australia in the Gulf of Carpentaria. Exquisite, and the fishing gods smiled upon me from the third cast on the first day with a 6kg Barramundi and just kept smiling on all of us. Mackerel, Tuskas, Golden Trevalli, Tuna, Breem and we ate everything we didn't return to the water. 

It was hot, the water was inviting if you were happy to share it with sharks, crocodiles and lethal stingers..

Up to our paradise that is Sth Stradbroke Island with my buddy Marco. I can say without equivocation that I have never seen that place so utterly beautiful, calm and clear with the wild life coming right up to the boat, or right up to my chair while I fished the sunset. If any of you ever get the chance, you should join us there as many of you already have.

And then I clocked 60. Sal threw the bash of the decade, no holds barred, everybody she knew or knew of in my address book was invited and it was just so cool that so many friends from so many phases of my life made it and I have no doubt enjoyed it. The only problem was, it took half the night saying hello to 120 people and then the second half saying goodbye!

We were instructed to go sailing on the day while the house was sorted for the bash. It was a great day, it really was.

The annual Vivid Sydney was on, which to me surpasses New Years Eve by quite some way and is getting bigger and more spectacular every year. A couple of couples ignored the instruction not to buy any presents for my 60th and I was given a Bridge Climb Voucher. Sal suggested I wait for Vivid and do a night climb. What a good idea that was. It was worth the wait. Thanks Fiona, Chris, Kate and Tom. 

Mark and his flat mate Max Champion decided to Kayak from Balmain to Bondi Beach. A trip of 20kms along the harbour, through the heads and down the coast to Bondi. Against their protestation I borrowed Mike Chapman's boat and with some mates, followed them at a reasonable distance checking in and taking photographs from time to time. 

This is them on the outside at the bottom of the famous Gap. Sydney's favored suicide venue. Sadly it is a tourist attraction for that reason...

It was no mean feat, particularly because by the time they reached the beach it was down to 10 degrees and they were both soaked and nearing exposure. The whole thing was for charity and raised over $3000 for Kids With Cancer. 

Well done boys and thank you to all who donated. It is our number one cause and thank you Mike for the use of your boat, the boys appreciated it in the end and we enjoyed the trip. 

It was very nice to have lived at our home this southern summer. Last time we rented as our house was rented and it just didn't feel like we were home. It was a very busy period but we resolved not to even think about this season before it arrived and just enjoy being in Sydney in a newly renovated house... for the times we were actually there!

This is Summer and her friend using the conventional entrance to the pool.

And so, the plan this year is to head for Venice via the Corinth Canal, Albania, Montenegro and Croatia. It will mean going back to where we started this folly 5000 miles ago…

I’ll keep you posted as usual.