Saturday 20 August 2016

Boka Kotorska - The Gulf of Kotor - Simply gobsmacking!

Montenegro is blessed with the Boka Kotorska.

Best described as a fjord that cuts its way deep into central Montenegro. It is dramatic, it is beautiful and somewhere you must go if you haven't been.


Our objective was Herceg Novi, a small harbour just inside the entrance to the gulf which is defended on both sides by fortresses. It is clear that the people of those times lived in constant fear of attack. Game of Thrones it would have been and in fact many of the episodes have been filmed here and in nearby Croatian cities like Dubrovnik and Split.


We were moored alongside thinking we'd only be one night, but by morning we had decided to make it two. Once again a really quaint town with narrow ally ways breaking into piazzas with a confusion of shops and eating venues.

Herceg Novi has three forts. One is used as an outdoor cinema. You can see the screen poking out of the top at the end of the wharf.





One is used for opera and stage productions with a fantastic back drop...








and the last is a long way up, derelict but still worth the climb.












But the best was to come.

Google Meister Al Reid found that Herseg Novi has the only winery in the Boka. It could be visited by appointment only and it cost 35 Euro per person for the tasting..

We made an appointment and were told how to get there. High above the town, higher even than the monastery sits the best little vineyard we have been to... and I do mean ever!




Branko, son of the founder and owner and his wife Millionaire (Will's name for her because it sounded like that) were on hand to show us around. Standing in for his holidaying parents and not very knowledgeable on wine making Branko, really hung over from the previous evening with a large group tried his best. Both such nice people it just didn't matter. 



This is the pool in front of their really beautiful family home.




Savina Winery is a stunning location with super views up and out of the Boka.


Millionaire was the perfect host. The snack plate was five star, the wine tasting started with Rose.... a bottle of it. Then the Chardonnay, the Cab Sav and finally the Merlot.

The Merlot is their special special, "we don't do tastings with this it is too scarce" drop.

"What? just whack one on the bill man and bring it on will ya..."

All four wines were right up there and naturally, a case of each was the order. Branko could not believe it and offered to drive us and our wine to the port.


We polished off the snacks and the wine, loaded his car and down we went, all the way to a police road block... where he realised he had forgotten to bring his licence and was instructed to go back and get it. Back up we went Sal and I grabbing a nanna nap in the sun while he tried but failed to locate his licence and finally ordered a cab. 






He seemed quite concerned about the consequences of not producing his licence, giving us a clue as to the authorities and their level of authority in Montenegro.

We somehow found space for all the wine on the boat and headed off for a seafood platter at a restaurant recommended by Branko and Millionaire. They were right on the button.

An unfortunate name for such a great restaurant!





That evening we were courteously asked by the Harbour Master to vacate our mooring by 9:30 the following morning to make way for a large super yacht. That settled our plans which were to head for Kotor at the very end of the Gulf and so at 9:10am on the 15th August we cast off and motored on glass through a most stunning movie set post card.


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